A Guide to Getting a Bike in Japan

‘Japan is a country of many bicycles and few cyclists’

If this isn’t a quote already then it should be. The most common bicycle in Japan is the mamachari: A type of short-distance utility bike for shopping, riding to and from the station, ferrying kids around etc. These bikes are great in their own context (see this post), but not great at other things that you might want a bicycle to do. Getting a mamachari in Japan can be easier than getting a haircut, and sometimes cheaper, but if you want a ‘sport bike’, then you might have to try a bit harder and read the rest of this guide.

What is a ‘Sport Bike’?

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I’m using the term ‘sport bike’ as shorthand for any bike designed for a specific discipline or purpose in cycling where good performance might be desirable. In the home centers of Japan it’s possible to find a whole host of ‘stylish’ (debatable) alternatives to the mamachari that aren’t really built for higher performance than a shopping bike but are often less functional. These bikes are sometimes harder to distinguish from my loose definition of ‘sport bike’, so watch out.

Anyhow, this post isn’t called ‘Choose the Right Bike for You!’ There’s plenty of information out there in the wide blue yonder of the web to help you do that. My point is that if your needs are simple, short distance and transportational then this post won’t help you much, just buy a mamachari and enjoy.

I decided to break this guide into two seperate posts. The first weighs the benefits of bringing a bike to Japan vs. buying one when you get here. It also gives some tips on transporting your bike as painlessly as possible and on where and what to look for when buying a new bike in Japan. The second post is a detailed look at the different ways to get a used bike in Japan, including some sources that you might not expect. I’ve managed to build up a fair amount of experience in used bike hunting since getting here and seeing as information about the subject seems to be pretty thin online, I’ve decided to share.

Should I Bring my Bike to Japan? – Transportation or Consumption

Buying a Used Bike in Japan – The Third Way

Remember, it may not always be easy, but cycling in Japan is most definitely worth it.

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Buying a Used Bike in Japan

The Third Way

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Getting a good deal on a used bike can be difficult no matter where you live, but there are a few extra obstacles in Japan that can make the process that little bit harder. Before I get into it though, I think I should warn you that getting a good bike that you’re happy with will likely take time, patience and some head scratching. If that doesn’t sound like you, then I’d suggest you reconsider the first two options in my previous post.

Some potential difficulties

Language barrier

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Buying a used bike often requires a little more negotiation than buying a new one. You may have simple questions that you want to ask about a bike that become very difficult if you have to ask them in Japanese. This shouldn’t stop you though, there are lots of resources to help you, particularly if you make use of technology. You can also try sourcing your bike from other English speakers, which I’ll get into later.

Limited second-hand market

You would think that in a country with so many bicycles, there would also be a thriving trade in second-hand bikes. Unfortunately, while used bikes are available, the second-hand market isn’t as robust in Japan as you might expect. Japan has a complicated relationship with re-using things. The cultural principle of “Mottainai” (not wasting things) comes up against a national obsession with hygene, overpackaging and consumerism. What this means in practice is that many Japanese people won’t consider going to a recycle shop to buy a bicycle, prefering to buy new, but there is a good chance that they’ll ride that bicycle until it falls apart from wear. If you know where to look, though, there are some good deals to be had.

Bike Registration

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All bicycles in Japan should be registered to their owners. This is a relatively simple process if you buy a bike from a shop, as they’ll do this for you. It can be more difficult if you buy directly from another person or if you buy online. There are procedures for transfering registration from one person to another but they are often complicated, outdated or unpracticable. In practice, however, many bike shops seem to know that the registration process is flawed and will often register your bike for a small fee with minimal proof that you bought it legally. I’ve tried this approach with two seperate bikes in two seperate bike shops and it worked both times without a hitch. Try to keep as much paperwork or records of sale as you can to show the shop.

Taking these difficulties into account, here’s some advice on three different ways to get a used bike in Japan:

Shops

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There are some big benefits to buying from a shop. Most importantly you know that the bike has been checked over by a professional and you get to see and potentially try out a bike before you buy it. Bring something you can leave with the owner if they seem reluctant to let you try a bike. I’ve found a residency card (zaryu/gaijin card) is usually the best bet. It’s only really valuable to you but gives the owner your details if you were to try to make away with the bike. Another benefit to buying from a shop is that they are guaranteed to register your bike for you. They may also give you a discount on any work that needs doing to the bike down the line. Unfortunately these benefits do come at a price. Second-hand shops will be more expensive than the other methods listed in this post. It’s still much cheaper than buying a new bike, though.

Second-hand shops in Japan are known as recycle shops. Most of them sell a mixture of electrical goods, clothes, furniture, nic-nacs and white goods. Some general purpose recycle shops do sell bikes, but mostly mamacharis. They also often suffer from the same issues as department stores in that the staff are generally not trained mechanics. There are also, however, a number of second-hand bike shops often run by owner operators with years of mechanical experience. Some sell only used bikes while some sell a mixture of new and used. Most of these shops are very local operations, and their stock varies a lot. The exception is Cycly, a chain of used bike stores with locations throughout Japan. The great thing about Cycly is that they list which bikes they have in which stores. Each bike has a picture and short description on their webpage. The information is in Japanese, but you can always apply google translate to the pages.

Don’t forget about those local, privately owned bike shops though. One of my favorite used bike shops in Tokyo is a place called Team C.C.Y. in Kita Ward, near where I work. The owner is very experienced and has a great, varied stock of used bikes from functional hybrids to classic steel-frame track bikes. I almost found my bike there but unfortunately most of his bikes were too small for me. It can be hard finding these shops in your local area. My most successful method so far has been to make a local search for ‘bicycle store’ in English or ‘自転車屋’ in Japanese on google maps (other mapping applications are available). This will bring up a variety of bike shops. I then search through the pictures for each shop to see if they have any used stock. Alternatively, just take a walk around your local neighborhood. Some of these bike shops aren’t on any mapping sites. Instead they trade on word of mouth and repeat custom built up over many years. If you’re lucky enough to have colleagues or friends who live in your local area, ask them if they have any recommendations.

Silver Jinzai

Silver Jinzai centers provide human resources services to older (otherwise retired) individuals. There are centers all over Japan that find various paid placements for elderly workers. It’s a government run scheme that lies somewhere between a regular job agency and a social welfare institution.

Luckily for bike hunters, one of the public services that some of the centers run is to sell-on reconditioned bicycles. The bikes are those that have been ‘abandoned’ at stations or in other public places. After a period of time without being claimed these bikes are turned over to the centers to either be fixed up or broken up for parts. Often they are bikes that were parked outside of designated areas and were seized by the local authority. The fines for recovering these bikes can be quite high (¥1000-¥6000) and so many people choose not to pay and simply get another bike instead.

The centers sell these bikes at a hefty discount when compared to used bike shops and recycle shops. Generally the prices are set at various tiers depending on which basic components the bike has. For example, these prices are taken from the well-known Suginami Green Cycle scheme:

¥6,700: General bicycle (basic mamachari)

¥7,700: With a dynamo light

¥8,200: With additional gears

¥9,300: Dynamo light and gears

¥10,300 ~¥13,400: Cross (hybrid) bike etc.

Other centers have similar tiers but prices can vary. As you might expect, most of the bikes tend to be low value shopping bikes. After all, if your expensive road bike were seized by the local authority you probably wouldn’t hesitate to pay a few thousand yen to get it back. Sometimes, however, the centers will turn up surprisingly nice bikes from mid-range hybrids to older single discipline bikes that may have been abandoned due to mechanical faults or missing parts. If you want a real high-performance bike then the Silver Jinzai center is probably not the place to go but if your aspirations are more recreational than sporting then you may well get lucky with a bit of patience.

As with shops, you get to see (and usually straddle) the bikes before buying. They’ll also register the bike at the center, usually free of charge. Don’t expect a test ride though, it’s a fast process and there’s often competition. Some centers settle multiple claims on the same bike by janken (rock paper scissors).

The centers often only open for a few days every month or sometimes one day a week. The system is designed to sell off as many bikes as possible in a short time so go as early on as you can. I tried to visit Suginami Green Cycle when I first arrived in Japan near the end of the second day of sales for that month. They had just begun turning people away because all of the bikes had been sold.

NOTE: I realized in researching this section that there is very little good information in English available on the internet about Silver Jinzai bicycles. Searching in Japanese revealed dozens of centers that offer the service but only a couple in Tokyo have been written about in English. I’ve decided to write a guide to Silver Jinzai in the near future which I’ll post separately, so watch this space for a link.

For now, I’ll just include this link, which details in Japanese which centers in each part of the country have bicycle related services (note that some of these centers do not sell reconditioned bicycles, but instead offer bicycle repair services)

Online

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Ah, the internet, the wild west of used bike trading. If you’ve ever bought a used bike online before then you’ll likely already know about the potential pitfalls. It can be difficult enough resolving disputes over online auctions in your native language, and it certainly won’t be any easier for you in Japan unless your Japanese language skills are really on point. In general, there are two roads to go down for foreigners looking for bikes online in Japan.

The fist way is to source your bike from the English speaking community. This may sound like limiting your pool a little too much but if you live in a major city like Tokyo there are going to be plenty of foreigners around. Besides, other than sidestepping the language barrier, there are several other advantages to finding a bike this way. Firstly, many foreigners in Japan stay for a limited time only. An English teacher like me will often stay for 2 to 5 years or so before selling up and moving on. That also means that they’ll have a whole load of stuff that they’ve accumulated in Japan and need to get rid of quickly, a great recipe for a bargain. If the owner is selling because they’re moving away, that’s also a good omen for the condition of the bike, making it less likely that they’re unloading it because of a mechanical issue or excessive wear. Secondly, in my experience, foreigners are more likely to be riding sports bikes in Japan than the Japanese, so you likely won’t have as many mamacharis to sift through to find what you want. If you’re taller than the Japanese average then you might also have more luck searching English listings.

Check out Sayounara Sale, Tokyo Craigslist and Gaijinpot Classifieds. I also personally recommend looking at the classifieds on the Tokyo Cycling Club forum. Members don’t post whole bikes in the classifieds quite as regularly as on the other sites I’ve listed but the quality tends to be high and for reasonable prices.

So all that leaves are the Japanese online auction sites. Ebay never got much of a foothold in Japan. Instead, Yahoo Auctions is the site to go to. Despite the many benefits of using other methods to get yourself a used bike, online auctions still offer the greatest choice, if not the easiest buying experience.

Hindsight

After exhausting other options I bought my road bike from Yahoo Auctions. The whole process was in Japanese and at the time my Japanese language skills were effectively zero. I managed to get a great bike through a combination of google translate, careful scrutiny of pictures, research and blind luck. It’s possible to look for listings of bikes in your local area that are available for collection, which may eliminate some of the chance element associated with online shopping. I had my bike sent to me by courier, and was able to pay the courier in cash not only for delivery but also for the bike itself. It’s a classic steel frame bike with a horizontal crossbar which made me confident that the sizing was correct for me. The listing itself was detailed, including a list of most major components and an appraisal of damages and wear.

Generally I wouldn’t advise buying blind in the way I did unless you know exactly what you’re looking for and have all the information you need. Even then I was very relieved when my bike turned up as described in good working order. The seller even threw in a cheap foldable maintenance stand for free!

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Keirin

Don’t google ‘Tokyo’s best kept secret’ because, let me tell you: If you’ve ever been to Golden Gai on a Friday night you’ll know straight away it’s not a secret to anyone. ¥2000 seating charges are a dead giveaway. The best kept secret is never a cool, quirky place that the locals want to keep to themselves. Usually it’s something that the locals would really prefer didn’t exist at all.

If you’ve followed the Olympics in recent years you may have heard of keirin before. It’s that cycling event where a funny looking electric motorbike paces the track cyclists for a few laps before peeling off to let them race. The word‘keirin’ (競輪/ケイリン) means ‘racing wheels’ in Japanese and while keirin at the Olympics is fairly new, it’s been around in Japan since 1948. The original Japanese version is a little different though.

Keirin old 2On the surface there are only minor differences. The riders are paced by another bicycle instead of an electric motorbike and instead of team jerseys; they all wear bright block colours with big black numbers clearly visible to the stands. The events take place outside on tarmac velodromes instead of the indoor wooden ones they use for pro track cycling. Essentially, though, the format is the same. The real difference is in who’s watching and why.

 

Keirin split

One of the things that the world loves about Japanese sports fans is how polite and conscientious they are. Supporters of Japan’s national football team are known to leave stadiums cleaner than they found them. I’ve been to both football matches and baseball games in Japan and the atmosphere is fantastic. Everyone has fun, the energy is high but never aggressive and at the end of the game, both sets of fans exit through the same gates. They talk, slap each other’s backs, celebrate, commiserate and get the train home. I’d recommend it to anyone.

But… you won’t find those sports fans at the keirin track. To be honest, you probably won’t find any sports fans there at all. That’s because keirin is all about gambling.

The reputation of gamblers in Japan is about as bad as it gets. This is a country where men will hang around by the magazine stands in convenience stores openly reading pornography, and yet the neon-glowing glass fronts of pachinko parlors are always frosted over to protect the identities of the wretched souls inside (pachinko is like a cross between pinball and slot machines).

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Gambling is actually illegal in Japan except for four special sports (pachinko gets away with it using a legal loophole). Those sports are Horse Racing, Motorcycle Racing, Power Boat Racing and, you guessed it, Track Cycling. These exceptions were introduced after World War II as a controversial way to generate revenue for reconstruction work. They’ve continued ever since as a stain on Japanese culture that makes too much money to be shut down but that upstanding citizens prefer to ignore. This may sound like an exaggeration but the next time you visit Tokyo, try asking at the front desk of your hotel where the nearest keirin track is and prepare to be met with a look of embarrassment and terror on the face of the desk clerk. Based on conversations I’ve had with Japanese friends and colleagues, keirin has a similar reputation to dog racing in the UK, only that the negative social stigma is more extreme.

When you go to the keirin track, don’t expect to see dedicated cycling fans, instead expect the company of old men chain-smoking and clutching betting slips. A lot of the punters don’t even go outside to the track for the races, preferring to watch the monitors near the betting stations. The races are also livestreamed online, so for less important races the stands can be almost empty with gamblers preferring to lose money in the comfort of their own homes.

How to Make Keirin a Great Day Out

You might think keirin is starting to sound a little bleak and you’re wondering why anyone would want to see it. In many ways, I can’t disagree, but with the right attitude you can actually have a great day out at the track. Here’s how:

1. Find an Event

Velodrome map

There are no velodromes in central Tokyo, but there are eight in the wider Tokyo area and neighboring prefectures that are pretty accessible. Only some of the velodromes have spotlights for evening and nighttime events. My advice would be to figure out which tracks are the easiest and cheapest for you to get to and then look up what events are happening there soon. There are different grades of events from FII to GP, so the higher grade events will usually be a bit busier, with more trackside businesses open and sometimes entertainment in the intervals between races. The event listing should also say if there are women’s races, somewhat patronisingly referred to as ‘Girls Keirin’ (カールズケイリン). Below are some links to general information about keirin (in English) and the event schedules (In Japanese).

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2. Call Up Some Friends

There isn’t much of a community atmosphere at the track, and there are fairly long gaps between races. It’s best to bring someone along to have a lazy chat with when there are no riders on the asphalt.

3. Get a Six Pack

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I’ve found it hard to find any official rules on bringing alcohol into the stadium for keirin. What I can say for sure is that they don’t generally check bags on the way in and you can freely buy alcohol in cans from vending machines inside. I’d recommend grabbing a few beers or your favourite one-cup sake in the combini beforehand. Just remember to throw your cans away responsibly or take them with you.

4. Pay Pocket-Change to Get In

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It really does cost almost nothing. The Keiokaku velodrome costs only ¥50 to get in. The highest basic entrance fee I’ve seen is ¥300. You can pay extra for box seats or special betting rooms but the trackside experience is more fun anyway. The reason it costs so little? Gambling! They easily make the running costs back from betting profits, so the low entry fees are to encourage as many people through the gates as possible.

5. Get Some Cheap Food

The food at the tracks tends to be very inexpensive and sometimes of a surprisingly high quality. I recently bought a curry rice set that included miso soup and salad for just ¥500. There’s plenty of time between races for a sit down meal, so you don’t have to eat out of polystyrene containers if you don’t want to.

6. Sit Back, Relax, and Enjoy

Putting gambling aside, the races themselves are really fun to watch. There’s more jostling in Japanese keirin than in normal track racing and most of the riders wear padding to compensate. About a quarter of races involve some kind of crash. If you’re into strategy, cycling is far more tactical than other gambling sports like dog racing. The riders usually draft in loose teams according to various factors including region, training location and seniority. There are significant differences between riders’ styles and current form. You don’t need to know these things to enjoy a day at the track, but for cycling enthusiasts, keirin has a lot to offer as a spectator sport.

7. Lose Some Money (optional)

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You can have a great time at the keirin track spending no more than the entrance fee, but for those who have aspirations of one day living alone in a single room apartment strewn with failed betting slips and lottery tickets, you can bet as little as ¥100 on each slip to get started. There are several different types of bet you can make and they’re explained here:

http://keirin.jp/pc/static/beginner/en/betting/index.html

It might be your last chance to see keirin in its current form. I have a suspicion that before long, the sport is going to change completely. Track cycling has seen a surge in popularity over the last few years and when the Tokyo 2020 Olympics hit, tourists will swarm into the city, and all those avid cycling fans will want to visit the cradle of keirin. Tokyo has hosted the Olympics before and has a history of bulldozing even the most historic sites to make way for infrastructure or to ‘clean up’ undesirable locations. Keirin may well be Tokyo’s best kept secret, and they’ll want to keep it that way.